Rear brake drum/hubs

This week’s project was the final project for this winter…cleaning up and inspecting both spare rear brake drum/hubs.

I would like to thank everyone who responded to my question a couple months ago! I asked what color everyone’s 1100 drums were. The answers ranged from them being bare cast metal, to black, to having separate hub and (non-painted) drum parts (in the later 1300s and Austin Americas). My book of “highly exalted words” illustrates the unit as Part no BTA375 (which is also stamped on the drum). They were originally painted red outside and black inside. So-be-it, they shall be that again.

Mine were both rusty and caked with fifty years of grease and grime.

But the braking surfaces still have a good bit of material left on them although they will have to be “turned” to smooth them.

The inner bearings (MoWog part no. BTA373, or in the real world 14LJT 7/8) are common “trailer” bearings. They are in good condition and only need to be cleaned and regreased.

The outer bearings (MoWog part no. 13H113, or real world MJT25) are a total loss and need to be replaced. Check out the grooved balls!! Of course, it figures that these are the more expensive and harder to find part!

I decided to just clean the drums up and paint them for now.

I am happy with the outcome besides the fact that they need to be turned and need new outer bearings. If I ever decide to sell them or need to put them on Old Biddy, I will tend to those issues then.

At least my three winter projects ( the radius/trailing arms, the hydrolastic diplacer units and the brake drums) are completed and I know what each of them needs for parts to “finish” them when the time comes. But warmer weather is arriving and my attention shifts back to getting Old Biddy color sanded and registered.

Thanks for visiting.

Toddy

Hydrolastic displacer unit clean up

Since spring seems to be coming quickly this year, I have to hurry up and finish my winter projects of refurbishing the spare parts that I have. My ultimate goal of organizing our cellar depends on it.

This week I concentrated on the hydrolastic “bags” that came off of the spare car. They are in very good condition with no leaks and the hoses and couplings seem solid. They are just rusty and crusty. There are quite a few sites that explain in much detail the inner and outer workings of these units. I will save you from ad nausea.

One point that the sites never really explain is the only difference between the front and back units. It is the flexible hose to steel hose connectors. The front has the air bleed valve, also known as the Schrader valve.

And the back ones do not have this.

One minor issue I had one of them was that the lower rubber was distended. Not a big deal to fix. Just used one of the piston cones to push it back up, and then I had to clean up the workbench where the hydrolastic fluid squirted out.

To save all the gory details of showing you the sanding (with wire brush and drill wire brush), primering and painting, I will just post the final “money shot”.

The only thing needed is a set of displacer rubber boots, Part number 21A1496. In Britain, they sell for between 7 and 9 pounds which calculates with the conversion rate to only $11 - $12. Here in the States they run from $18 - $25. A set of four would cost about $80 with shipping!! Right now the priority is putting that money towards getting Old Biddy registered.

Everyone one around the world has told me to keep these as spares and not sell them as they are growing rare. I have seen a set of four selling for $750 and up. Tempting but not persuading enough!! Next up is the final project of the winter…the rear brake drums, an interesting tale indeed.

Thanks for visiting.

Toddy

Radius/trailing arm project Part 3. Finally Finished!!

I know it took a month and a half. But, the trailing/radius arm refurbishing operation is completed! Parts BTA 626 (right) and BTA 627 (left) are officially off my workbench!

After stripping the outside of the arms and scrubbing them down with a wire brush, the inside parts were next. I took the arms to John’s and used his angle grinder with steel cutting wheels to get the pivot shafts removed.

Then I brought them home and had to cut the rusted and "frozen" bearing races with a Dremel and pound them out. This was by far the hardest and most frustrating part of the whole operation!!

I decided to use a wire brush wheel on my drill to polish them up instead of sandblasting them. They de-rusted very nicely so they were primered.

And painted.

I found a complete pivot shaft rebuild kit on that auction site. It was a bit pricey but, then again, how many of these kits are there in the world?

The rear brake backing plates were also wire brushed and sanded down. They painted up well. I also splurged and got new handbrake lever boots since the old ones crumbled to bits.

The cleaned up parts...the brake adjusters and handbrake levers, were reinstalled.

I have all the parts…new shoes, springs, retaining springs, and brake cylinders…to rebuild them. But, then again, I may just save everything as spares for Old Biddy.

They were then reassembled. All the newly painted bits look great!!

To see what I started with, scroll through the previous two posts to refresh your memory. I am very pleased with the outcome. And they do not smell bad any more!!

I do not know if I am going to rebuild them completely or try to sell them as is. A few questions come to mind if I decide to sell them. How much are they worth? Will someone actually be interested in purchasing them? Would I get my money back if I sell them completely rebuilt with pivot shaft kits (and roller foot joint kits) installed and all new brakes? Will I need these in the future as spares for Old Biddy?

Next projects to go up on the bench will be cleaning up my spare hydrolastic displacement units and the rear brake drums.

Thanks for visiting.

Toddy